Frequently Asked Questions
Please contact us with your questions, and we will post answers here.
Scroll down to read FAQs for the project of your choice.
Do you sell a complete kit?
NO. We sell the core components of the conversion, CNC-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum, and are currently working on free downloadable templates and online instructions to fabricate the supercharger mounts.
The first step in the conversion is to install a serpentine belt drive to replace the OEM ‘V-belt’ drive. You can then drive your naturally-aspirated Spridget while completing the remaining stages of the conversion.
what is the benefit of a blow-through supercharger conversion?
A ‘blow-through’ conversion allows use of an intercooler. Every modern production vehicle running a turbocharger or supercharger incorporates an intercooler to increase power, combat detonation, and lengthen engine life. The ‘draw-through’ design of the other supercharger kits for the A-series—offered by Moss Motors and High Performance Products of Australia—prohibits use of an intercooler.
how difficult is the conversion?
Moderate. Most of the tasks involve bolting on various parts, but you or someone you hire will have to weld up the mounts for the supercharger. This involves less than an hour of welding after the components (five of them) are fashioned from 3/16” steel bar and angle iron.
You must also make a handful of simple parts from aluminum bar available via the internet, install a high-pressure fuel-delivery system (fuel pressure in the float bowl must exceed maximum boost), and convert an SU HIF44 carburetor to run under boost conditions as explained here. (The system is compatible with throttle body fuel injection, but we have yet to finalize the details.)
We are working on free downloadable templates showing the dimensions of each component you must make, and a full set of online instructions similar to those for our rear disc brake conversion.
You will need: (i) a set of competent hand tools, including flat and round files; (ii) bimetal hole saw and hack saw or (highly recommended) handheld band saw or plasma cutter; (iii) 4” to 6” bench vise (bigger is better); (iv) an inexpensive rotary grinder (ours cost $13.00 on Amazon) to run a carbide rotary bit, although arguably you could use a drill motor to do that; (v) a handheld tubing bender for the fuel lines; and (vi) a drill or ideally a drill press. A smaller, bench-mounted press works fine.
what do i have to buy?
You will need the below-listed core components, together with a host of widely-available parts including silicone snorkel elbows, a K&N-style performance air cleaner, ‘T-bar’ style hose clamps and aluminum connecting tubes or to save money, mandrel-bent steel exhaust pipe (we are working on downloadable bending templates you can take to a muffler shop), stainless steel fuel line, a high-pressure fuel pump and aluminum swirl tank, and various fasteners. A boost gauge helps in tuning but is not vital.
We are working on a complete parts list, which we will post online and make available as a free PDF download, but the below-listed components represent the bulk of the cost of conversion, which ranges between $2,000 and $3,000, largely hinging on whether the supercharger and carburetor you source are new or used.
Eaton M45 supercharger model no. 207018, from 1999-2003 Mercedes SLK 230 Kompressor (w/o electronic clutch) and some 1999-2000 Mercedes Benz C230 models (w/o electronic clutch);
Creative Spridgets Eaton M45 supercharger manifold;
Creative Spridgets serpentine crankshaft pulley;
Smoothflow Pulleys serpentine water pump pulley for the A-series engine;
Creative Spridgets SU HIF44 snorkel adapter;
If running an early down-flow radiator or VW Rabbit crossflow radiator (the latter conversion will soon be covered on this website), Creative Spridgets thermostat housing adapter;
Minispares C-AHT770 cast aluminum manifold;
SU HIF44 carburetor (we recommend starting with a BCV needle and 20W-50 oil in the dashpot);
Intercooler from a 1997-2002 Audi A4 with a turbocharged 1.8L engine (i.e., Amazon for $72.50 w/free shipping);
Supercharger bypass valve from a 2002 Mini Cooper S (i.e., www.europortparts.com, $94.60).
*Note: when comparing the cost of this DIY conversion, consider that, unlike other ‘complete kit’ options which lack an intercooler, this conversion does not require dismantling the engine and replacing the stock 8.8:1 compression pistons to utilize the available boost.
We are working on step-by-step instructions and a photo series for rebuilding your own supercharger. Overhauling the ‘snout’ bearings and seals is well within the skills of an average DIYer in possession of an arbor press.
We are also exploring the possibility of offering partial rebuilding services of the more difficult portions—such as R&Ring the rear ‘pocket’ needle bearings and timing the rotors—for a reduced cost. Please contact us if this is something you would appreciate.
Rear Disc Brakes
DO YOU SELL A COMPLETE KIT?
NO. We sell aluminum adapter plates and provide step-by-step instructions that allow you to perform an inexpensive DIY conversion. The first do-it-yourself task is browsing a few websites or going to the store or auto recycling facility to obtain the remaining components in the parts list. This eliminates our ability to make a profit on the remaining parts, but it also reduces our overhead dramatically. We pass the savings on to you.
can i have someone do the conversion for me?
YES. Any competent mechanic can perform the installation. CC Motorsports is an excellent choice. Derek Chima's meticulously finished race cars have been featured on British V-8 magazine:
does the conversion add unsprung weight?
YES - it adds 2.4 lbs. or 1.1 kg. per corner. However, we feel that the increased braking force, zero adjustments, and greatly simplified lining replacement is well worth it.
Will the rear disc brake adapters fit other cars?
This conversion will work on all 1/2 and 1/4 elliptical spring Spridgets. You will have to perform one additional step on Bugeye Sprites, which is described in the installation instructions, but otherwise the process is identical.
ALSO, one resourceful owner has discovered the adapters will fit a Morris Minor, simply by rotating them a few degrees and redrilling the mounting holes. See the customer cars page.
what wheels are compatible with the conversion?
See the photos of compatible wheels and measurements for those with custom or racing wheels on the disc brakes page.
Is a proportioning or 'bias' valve necessary?
YES. With original Spridget Lockheed discs on the front, this conversion produces a definite rear-wheel bias, and a proportioning valve is needed. See the proportioning valve section on the disc brakes page.
WILL THIS CONVERSION WORK WITH HEAVY DUTY RACING AXLE HALF-SHAFTS?
Yes, but the self-centering method for OEM half-shafts outlined on the installation page may not work. Vintage racer Simon Page overcame that obstacle by simply redrilling the rotors to match the correct PCD.
will these disc brake adapters work with double-bearing hubs?
Unfortunately, we have been informed that the Peter May double bearing hub will not clear the adapters. We do not have data on other hubs.
will these adapters work with a rear traction link or panhard rod?
The short answer is, it depends on the configuration.
Frontline's RTL appears to connect on the R/H side close to where the Nissan caliper ends up--aft of the axle and just above the leaf spring. That could be incompatible with this conversion.
Panhard rods vary so much in configuration and attachment method that it is impossible to answer this question without seeing yours. However, you may be able to get an idea from these photos. The remainder of the axle is unchanged from the stock setup on your Spridget: